WALTZING ON WATER
Most cruise connoisseurs know nothing about river sailing. They know about the ocean-going QE II, the Crystal Harmony, the Sea Goddess, the Radisson Diamond, The Royal Viking, etc. But sailing down the Danube?
Well, I recently returned from a serene cruise down the graceful Danube River from legendary Nuremberg, its synthesis of modern and Middle Ages dominated by massive imperial castles and cathedrals,. My vessel was the splendidly composed River Cloud--360 glorious feet of luxury, from its beautifully furnished public areas, to gold-plated fittings on the marble bath fixtures.
It had been a hot and rainy season. The late Summer sun was cooler and golden, the landscappe luxuriant, leafy, and verdant. Our days were spent slowly sailing into picturesque riparian towns and cities, including Regensburg, Melk (lavish Baroque architecture) and Esztergom, as well as visiting Vienna, and finishing in historically rich Budapest
This trip was a harmonious musical tour of the Danube, with daily on-board concerts by internationally noted classical pianists and vocalists such as Grant Johannessen, Bruce Brubaker, and Oxana Arkaeva. Each night brought new auditory pleasures as the celebrated artists explored the masterworks of Chopin, Beethoven, and Gershwin, to name a few. Trips ashore also centered around musical events--we enjoyed a soaring organ concert in Passau from what has to be the most breathtaking instrument in the world, and a vivacious evening of Mozart in Vienna's Koncert Hall.
As counterpart to the classical music, Executive chef Sonke Schlie turns the River Cloud into the hottest world-class dining room on any body of water by demonstrating sizzling culinary orchestrations with his grilling, frying, steaming, roasting, and sauteeing combined with a hearty dash of style. Consider this lunch--a high-fashion parade of saddle of veal, herring, artichokes in champagne-vinaigrette, towering salads of apple-celery, mixed rice, carrot, cream of tomato with spring leek, tender, juicy roast beef with beans and bacon, baked potatoes with thick, snowy sour cream, masses of of international cheeses, and seminola pudding with raspberry sauce, vividly fresh fruit, and coffee. One conspicuously savory dinner consisted of roasted breast of duck, evoking great passion, its sauce coddled by robust orange-pepper, festooned with almond broccoli and dumplings. Dessert was a vibrant variation of silky chocolate mousse sparked with fresh fruits.
Recently built, The River Cloud was conceived as a bright vessel of creativity with impeccable breeding. It's pricey, but we certainly got our money's worth, with land excursions included in the cost. It holds a maximum of 98 passengers, masterminded by a complement of 33 crew. Although the aim of the cruise is Sybaritic relaxation, surprises include cellular telephone and fax facilities, as well as satellite communication. The lounge bar opens early, closes late; the deck bar follows the weather. The cabins polished facilities almost pulsate to the background music, embracing every indulgence imaginable, from bathrobes to toiletries, radio, TV, video player, juice and drink bar, even an umbrella! And you can supplement anything from the ship's boutique. There's a gym, sauna, laundry, and foreign currency exchange. The library has books (in English and German), games, and newspapers to pass the time as the towns of central Europe slowly glide by.
HOW TO The cruise aboard the River Cloud was deftly assembled by Dailey-Thorp Travel for Steinway & Sons. They also offer a great variety of other cruises plus pre- and post-cruise tour packages. Call Dailey-Thorp (212) 307-1555.
Oct.31, 1997