Cruising on the Mississippi In America's early years, exotic adventure meant a trip on the Mississippi. You can still enjoy the experience today, on the two paddlewheelers Delta Queen and Mississippi Queen. Scores of cruises are scheduled throughout the year, from quick two nighters to as many as 12 nights, with ports-of-call from Pittsburgh to St. Paul.

If you arrive in New Orleans a few days early, you will be put up at the steamship company's own hotel the Maison Dupuy, in the historic French Quarter. The Big Easy is the quintessential tourist town, the big attractions are the night life music, musi c, music of every ilk-- and the food.

Little has changed at Arnaud's since its opening in 1918. Dining in its rooms remains reminiscent of elegant townhouse living during the early part of the century. The menu is deliciously Creole (well, maybe haute Creole). Held in especial esteem is Gala toire's, the "Grande Dame" of French Quarter restaurants. The cuisine is still skillfully prepared Creole and French food at inexpensive prices. We indulged on our last morning on the legendary Brennan's breakfast menu--the largest I have ever seen. An af ternoon of packing for the trip and we were ready to make our acquaintance with "The Mighty Mississip."

The Mississippi Queen was waiting for us at the terminal 382 feet long, 68 feet wide, and towering seven stories above the water, with music blaring from her steam calliope. Our stateroom (a luxury suite) was wood paneled, with a brass bed, overstuffed easy chair, and outside veranda. But all the rooms are homey and comfortable. We left just as the sun was setting, affording views of the lower Mississippi and in time for a lavish dinner on board and settling in to the steamboatin' life.

And there is more than plenty to do aboard. Each evening, the onboard newspaper is delivered, with activities, river lore and anecdotes, and history of the region to be seen the following day. We could have tried our hand at the calliope, taken a tour of the pilot house or engine room, visited the gym with its whirlpool and sauna, played bingo or other parlor games (gambling is strictly prohibited, incidentally), attended a lecture, gone to the movies, taken a book out of the onboard library, or chosen o ne of a couple of shows and musical acts. On-board services also include a beauty salon, gift shop, 24 hour film processing lab, post office, photographer, and telephone.

After a busy evening and a dip into the midnight buffet, we surprised ourselves by arising at dawn, eager to take in the serene beauty of this mighty waterway. The day was spent in self indulgence: watching the shore slowly slip by from our veranda, havi ng a grand time eating there is food available at all hours, from snacks to buffets walking it all off with a stroll around the decks.

Natchez has always been a port of call for the river steamers. Its appeal comes from its history--it boasts perhaps the largest trove of antebellum architecture in the country.

After another evening savoring the pleasures of the Mississippi Queen, we arrived at Baton Rouge, where the Cajun Heritage Tour was a tour de force of history and anecdotes of Louisiana and Cajun life.

Back aboard, there was time for a quick snooze and a bracing drink before a grand farewell dinner. There is always a selection of "heartsmart" foods at every meal and for every course, as well as a selection of traditional river fare. Here's a typical me nu from one evening meal: appetizers of bacon wrapped scallops and pate maison; navy bean or wonton soups; artichoke or steamship salad; braised short ribs, chicken parmesan, lemon lime pompano, veal Nottoway. Desserts of sweets and treats, fresh fruit, s herbets and ice creams, coffee, tea, milk, soft drinks, wines.

Our final evening was spent passing through the still night of the southern Mississippi. Next morning, we wolfed down one last hearty breakfast before disembarking in New Orleans. It's easy to see why many of the passengers we met were veterans of many t rips on Old Man River.

For information, call (800) 543-1949.

9/3/93