JAMAICA GRANDEColumbus called it, "The fairest isle that ever eyes beheld," and this from a guy who got around the Caribbean pretty good. And what was good for Columbus has remained a great tourist destination. This is a country that has paid its dues. Social and po litical maturation have given Jamaica stability and vision. It is an intelligent, vibrant society that knows what's good for itself...and what's good for Jamaica is a healthy tourist industry. The country goes all out to tend to its natural endowments, take care of its people, and cater to the visitor. The result? Don't worry, be happy, mon! Despite furious competition from all over the world for the tourist dollar, Jamaica remains one of the world's most popular destinations, and has an extremely hi gh rate of return guests.
Checking out this phenomena, we decided to visit Jamaica's little-known north coast, a vista of spectacular beauty that runs for miles of sandy beach and offshore reef all the way from Negril on the west to Port Antonio on the east. It was this coast of cliff and forest and beach that so enthralled Columbus, and continues to weave its spell to this day.
We arrived via Air Jamaica, a trip that confirmed my belief that you can get a feel for a country by the way its national airline is run. AJ runs a relaxed, comfortable, accommodating flight. I don't really see the need for a dress code in first class, but, hey, this is country that has retained deep cultural ties with England (their ceremonial military uniform is still the red coat) and the world can use all the civilizing influences it can get.
Our target destination was, to my knowledge, a unique experiment in the travel business, the Jamaica Grande in Ocho Rios. Hong-Kong-based Ramada International had taken two multi-star luxury hotels on the north coast and combined them into a drop-dead s tunning single resort--Jamaica's largest. The two hotels--the Ramada Mallards Beach Resort and the Americana Beach Resort--were well-known in their own right, but a year-long, 23-million-dollar-renovation has resulted in a state-of-the-art facility of gr and design. And the kicker is that the new Jamaica Grande is offering tons of amenities at inexpensive prices.
The Victorian-inspired architecture, softened by tropical colors and white fretwork, which ties the two hotels together fits nicely into the tranquility of Mallards Bay. The open-air reception center of soaring glass walls and tropical foliage is the br idge between the natural beauty of the bay and the beautifully modeled interior, introduced by probably the world's most unusual swimming pool. Dominating the scene is a 26-foot-high cascading waterfall, designed after nearby Dunn's River Falls, which we' ll get to later. The clover-shaped pool, at 11,000 square feet, is one of the largest swimming pools on the island and is exciting without its waterfall. There are swim-through grottos (one has its own 15-foot waterfall), a swim-up bar, Jacuzzis, and a swing bridge. Interestingly, the pool needs no chlorine--the water is purified electronically using a system developed by NASA for use on board spacecraft.
There are resorts, and there are resorts. On Jamaica, you don't feel isolated and obligated to stay within an artificial little world. The Jamaica Grande--the product, remember, of two memorable luxury facilities--can sate any fantasy desire two times over, but they also encourage the visitor to explore the natural riches of the surrounding countryside. There are tours available to all of the nearby attractions, or you can pick up a car or taxi and head on over yourself.
The falls at Fantasy Pool are impressive, and you can see the original on which it was modeled. Dunn's River Falls is a spectacular sight of water cascading down 600 feet to a freshwater pool carved out of the golden sands. You can get your feet wet in the cooling waters, or hike up to the top for a breathtaking view. If flowers, plants, and such are your thing, there's plenty of happy hours ahead nearby. Fern Gully is a three-mile stretch of road lined with more than 500 species of fern--some truly gargantuan. Shaw Park Botanical Gardens, a former plantation, is now a beautifully tended 34 hillside acres of plants, streams, ponds, and scenic views. Tropic flora and a new seawater aquarium are the highlights of the Gardens of Carinosa. For those w ith a love of horses, a trip to Chukka Cove is a must. You'll always see great horseback riding at the Equestrian Center, and possibly a game of world-class polo. Riding and polo lessons are available, and rides from one hour to overnight, for beginners to experienced jumpers, are offered.
Two of the most offbeat of Jamaica's attractions are also in the neighborhood. Firefly, home to Noel Coward the last 25 years of his life and now a museum and mausoleum, may seem a little incongruous, but not so the Bob Marley Shrine, which contains the late Reggae superstar's remains. Incidentally, you will never forget the experience of attending a Reggae Festival at Reggae Park. Makes you kind of wonder what all these happy, carefree people know that you don't.
Jamaicans like to say that "we're more than a beach, we're a country," and you can explore the real Jamaica with tours that include a look around a real working plantation, a day tour of lovely Montego Bay and colorful fishing villages, and several mount ain treks. One of the most popular activities--Jamaica Night on the White River--admittedly blends a little realism with a little Disney, but it makes for great fun anyway. We were picked up at the hotel and taken through Ocho Rios' colorful shopping di strict to the White River. There, we boarded an authentic fisherman's cottonwood canoe for a trip up the river dramatically lit by bamboo torches. Intellectually, you know this has been done 1000 times before, but the trip still retains a thrill unknown to riders of Disney mechanized craft. We disembarked to a warm welcome of Jamaican drinks and island food, a rousing Caribbean floor show and then had time for some dancing or, in my case, relaxing under the soft, island stars.
Our one big disappointment was that, at our visit, the main restaurant at Jamaica Grande was not yet completed. By the time you read this, all five of the Jamaica Grande dining spots and nine lounges will be going full tilt--Cafe Jamaique for casual din ing; Dragons, for Cantonese and Szechuan amid romantic charm; Italian fare at L'Allegro; and the glorious Mallards Court next to the Fantasy Pool. It did give is the opportunity to explore the local cuisine, and we had...well...interesting results. The first and closest place we tried was, Evita's, which calls itself the best little pasta house in Jamaica. Although I am in no mind to test the claim, I was impressed by the supple and delicious pasta. It should have come as no surprise that hostess Evit a was known as Eva in her native Venice, Italy. This is the kind of life New York stockbrokers fantasize about giving it all up for. The restaurant is housed in an authentic 1860 gingerbread house, nestled on a hillside just below the Enchanted Gardens , with a spectacularly beautiful view.
Of course, it would be folly, if not criminal, to neglect the Grande days and nights available within the resort. There are enough things brewing to keep a mortal busy most of his or her lifetime. First of all, families will want to deposit their littl e darlings at the Club Mongoose, a children's activity and day-care center. Professional workers supervise beach and poolside programs, environmental awareness nature study, and a pen-pal program. This leaves mom and dad free to explore their pleasures. For the active, the location means an abundance of watersports: windsurfing, snorkling, scuba, fishing. There are three swimming pools, a fully equipped fitness center (sauna, massage, steam room, the works), four tennis courts (night-lighted), and gol f close by. Relaxation of s different sort can be found in the slot machine room, video room, library and reading room. There is, of course, nightly entertainment, and plenty of activity in the lounges, especially the new "Jamaic'n Me Crazy" disco, alre ady a popular nightspot. And if this weren't enough, there are also nightly theme parties are staged beside the fantasy pool. And it should be noted that special consideration has been given guests with disabilities.