The Island of ArubaNo place in the Caribbean can be grasped in as little time as the Dutch island of Aruba. Noted for its resorts, hotels, and gambling casinos,it has long been a year-round playground.
Literally a sun-kissed, 70 square mile area (annual rainfall is less that 20 inches) with an average year-round temperature of 82 degrees, cooled by breezy trade winds, it's rich in color and landscaped with white beaches, glistening bays, and calm blue Caribbean waters. It teems with rocks sculptured by the wind and sea, and its sunsets live on in the memory long after the vacation has ended.
There are countless lodging possibilities in Aruba, from modest hotels to deluxe, and the dependably warm climate is ideal for year-round sports--golfing, swimming, fishing, waterskiing, and yachting. You can rent a car and visit the fanciful beaches, ca sinos, nightclubs, restaurants and duty-free shops and boutiques of the Capital, Oranjestad, with their remarkably good buys.
As you might expect, the cooking of Aruba reflects its Dutch and Indian roots. It's nothing to rave about, but it's nothing to reject out of hand either. In addition to European fare, kitchens are dominated by Dutch and Indonesian specialties such as Rij staffel, or rice table, curries, sates, and some Indian dishes. Much local fish is used in classic recipes, but meats are imported. It should be noted that there are no great wines in the region, just a handful of charming, thirst-quenching youngsters--an d a number of others that also quench the thirst but fail to charm.
Among the most memorable of Aruba's eating places is Chez Mathile (a tidy step ahead of its numerous rivals) domiciled in Oranjestad's oldest residencal building. Its cozy dining rooms, lavishly decorated with plants and potted palms, lead one into ano ther, ending with a garden in the rear. It likewise does quite well in catering to the palates of Aruban gourmets. The fare is French-style and among the choices, the bouillabaisse was outstanding, deeply herbed and flavored, brimming with fresh fish. A d ish that reflected the island's Dutch roots was lobster tails served with a Gouda-based gratin. The slightly nutty taste of the cheese added to the lobster meat, and is highly recommended. Chez Mathile has a throng of people on their hands every dinnertim e and reservations are strongly suggested.
Another restaurant that has its merits is Valentino's, a lively, charming, uppercrust spot with a full downstairs lounge for waiting to be seated in the bright, large-windowed upstairs dining room. Obviously, this is one of the glories of the local citiz ens and much sought after, so tables are hard to come by. The Italian chef, Victorio, turns out some very competent specialties within the confines of his open kitchen. Here you escape the world to dine on fresh lobster, abundantly bathed in glowing butte r; filet of fresh fish cooked in a delicate tomato sauce with garlic and herbs; tenderloin, shallow-fried with chicken liver sauce; a wide range of pasta; and other worthwhile things of life that just seem to pop out of Valentino's kitchen.
When funds are running low in Aruba (a distinct possibility with all the shopping opportunities), the neighborhood restaurant Le Petit Cafe is excellent for a good square lunch or dinner. An endless stream of beef cuts, fresh Caribbean cooking, fresh fi sh and shellfish, daily specials, salads, sandwiches, and desserts are served daily to customers in both the main and upstairs dining rooms. This is an appealing off-the-street cafe in the heart of town, and chosen by us to meet the needs of hungry folk u nwilling to spend a lot.
You might likewise enjoy Mi Cushina (a short cab ride from town), with its cool, casual, museumlike quality (the owner generally gives a tour of his collection of island artifacts before seating you), skillfully blended with local and regional specialtie s. To dine here is to combine the pleasures of the table with local history and lore, which can rarely be matched elsewhere except in a few private houses. Here you may tackle such exotic dishes as iguana soup and rich and distinctive Caribbean dishes suc h as stewed seafood. It's open daily for lunch and dinner (except Thursdays).
Of all the hotel dining rooms we favored the French Room in the Golden Tulip. Within its debonair surroundings, it emphasizes the freshest seafood and poultry, veal and beef specialties. These might be a selection of fried and steamed fish; scampi and sc allops backed by a leek sauce; chicken breast with green herbs, and lamb cutlets with ratatouille and an aubergine sauce. You won't go wrong here, but you must reckon to pay fairly highly.
Casa de Mer is noted for its all-you-can-eat Sunday buffet brunch. The dining area is built on the beach, facing the ocean. It caters to local dignitaries and well-to-do families, and a steady stream of passing tourists. It's necessary to reserve a table .
5/25/90