RIO-LAXATION

There is no place like Rio de Janeiro--blessed with a unique natural setting of miles of beaches, soft blue waters and soft dark nights, sports, entertainment, cuisine, and culture--all in abundance in what everybody calls Paris by the Sea.

Headquarters was the Copacabana Palace Hotel, which has housed celebrity and royalty since its opening in 1923. The landmark edifice has just come out of a $40-million restoration and renovation that truly makes it a palace on the Copacabana.

You could spend a lifetime in Rio and not see it all, spread around mountains, beaches, lagoons, rivers, and ocean. Rio's towering religious statement, "Christ the Redeemer" towers a half mile above the city atop

Corcovado mountain. To view old Brazil, a visit to Largo do Botic takes you back to Colonial times. Culture lovers can go to the opera or theater or more than 60 museums. The botanical garden is an Eden of plants and trees from the four corners of the earth, and Tijuca Forest, the largest urban forest in the world.

For Brazilians, eating is a big part of life and is approached with gusto. Some of the better independents we experienced: the astonishing portions served at Marius, which cuts the meat off the bone at the table and serves until you plead for mercy; the newish Yemanja, designed with an appreciation of native Brazilian art and cuisine; the elegant Cipriani at the Palace; Casa da Feijoada and its excellent traditional menu; the huge marine selection at Grattammare; and the stunning Confeitaria Colombo, a landmark Brazilian restaurant-ice cream parlor.

For Copacabana Palace reservations call 800 237-1236.

HOW TO GET THERE We flew to Rio de Janeiro via Varig, who provided many comfortable amenities both in the terminal and in-flight, making the long trip more enjoyable. For information call (800) 978-2744 or your travel agent.