Cuisines of the Sun Festival, HawaiiHawaii's scenic beauty is clearly hard to resist. Each island offers sun, seas, and beaches to explore, along with myriad accommodations, an infinite variety of amenities, and countless restaurants, some of them award-winners.
A recent sojourn in the Pacific brought me to the Big Island of Hawaii for a novel event: the premiere of "Cuisines of the Sun" an occasion to be held annually at the sophisticated and very deluxe Mauna Lani Bay Hotel. This four-day gastronomic holiday, for people with culinary convictions, showcased Southeastern/Caribbean, Southwestern, Californian, and contemporary Hawaiian/Pacific Rim cuisine, prepared by some of the country's foremost chefs teamed with prominent guest winemakers from California. Fran kly, there wasn't a monotonous moment throughout--be it the cooking demonstrations, tastings, and wine seminars, or the nights of lavish buffet festivities and gala dinners. Overall, "Cuisines of the Sun" was an instructive, memorable experience, hopefull y setting a precedent.
Samplings of the event's unqualified successes were seared sea scallops with fried plantains; rum and pepper grouper with a soothing mango chardonnay puree; braided chicken with vivid red chili; and lobster curry paired with macadamia nut pesto and pinea pple mango salad. Next year, 1991, "Cuisines of the Sun" will highlight the exotic foods of Southeast Asia, Singapore and Indonesia.
While on the Big Island, we sought out the Hyatt Regency Hotel, ballyhooed as the biggest resort ever built. On 62 acres, this self-contained colossus comes complete with assorted attractions, seven restaurants and its own tramway and gondolas for transp ort. A sure destination for kids of all ages.
For pure escapement, however, (no phones, radio, TV, shopping arcades or swinging disco's), don't stray beyond Big Island's Kona Village. Like a remote Eden, this is where you elude the stresses of civilization. Here individual bungalows are perched a mid ocean, beach, lagoon, and gardens, offering a full American plan (all meals included). You'll dine on all-you-can-eat tasteful American, Hawaiian, and Continental fare, and it's a wrap at affordable prices.
For island-hoppers yearning to be catered to, coddled, humored, and indulged, one of the more popular regions is Waikiki--replete with ritzy ocean-front hotels, fashionable shops, outstanding restaurants and assorted distractions. Among the network of sa nctuaries is the Halekulani. Its accommodations and restaurants, La Mer and Orchids, both looking out on postcard views of Waikiki Beach and both making a bid for fresh laurels under the direction of new executive chef George Mavrothalassitis, simply cann ot be faulted.
Indelible samplings from La Mer included a deep rich herbaceous bouillabaisse; ravioli of escargots accented with hot spices; roasted lobster a la provencale--bright in color and flavor; and delicate, silken papillote of Kuma with basil and shiitake mus hrooms. Orchids signature dishes consisted of deftly smoked mahimahi in a heady sorrel sauce; broiled opakapaka scented with watercress sauce; veal chops with an earthy ragout of sweetbreads; and charbroiled filet of beef that came to life in a fragrant C alifornia Pinot Noir sauce."
Honolulu's "best restaurant," Michel's, in the Colony Surf Club, certainly has all the requisites for such a title--views of the beach and surf, lavish furnishings, crystal lighting, and luxurious table appointments.
If you like coho salmon, the rendition here, simply cooked in a beurre blanc sauce, is one of the most gratifying. Other high points involve duckling in a yin-yang kind of sauce balancing Bigarrade and Grand Marnier; plump shrimps simmered in a shimmerin g garlic butter; and a crusty, tender rack of lamb. Expect to pay accordingly.
Waikiki's Hyatt Regency is the home of Bagwell's 2424. It draws a steady stream of passing trade, which is more than can be said for the average 'grand hotel' restaurant. Count on a disarming milieu, quiet rather leisurely service, an absorbing wine list and very agreeable French/Continental cuisine.
Kacho is an inconspicuous Waikiki Japanese restaurant drawing meager attention. But it is a find of sorts, offering affordable sushi, and grilled dishes. It specializes in kacho bento (Japanese lunch boxes) abundant with assorted seafood, vegetables, bro iled fish, chicken, sunomono, soup, rice and fruit, and authentic Japanese breakfasts. Aloha.
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For prices and particulars of the Cuisines of the Sun Festival, call 1-800-367-2323. 1996 dates are July 20-23.