AMERICA'S RIVIERA

It is called the Gold Coast, and I like to think of it as America's Riviera. Deep blue water caressing silky beaches, a friendly sun, and a concentration of resorts devoted to luxury and relaxation. Palm Beach, Florida, has become the destination of choice.

Elegant and sophisticated, the Four Seasons Resort recent renovation has given it an understated feeling of luxury. Guests are pampered at every turn--guidance at the spa, iced towels at the pool, and a professionally run activity program for kids. The jewel in the crown is the modestly named The Restaurant. Under the sublime executive chef Hubert Des Marais, The Restaurant scored the Triple A's five diamond rating, the only restaurant in South Florida to be so honored. The menu is innovative, the presentation artistic, the taste a complex joy.

The legendary Breakers stands amid acres of lush gardens, overlooking a private beach. The resort offers a wide range of activities-- golf courses, tennis, scuba diving, and a supervised programs for children. In grand tradition, this 'palace by the sea' boasts no less than eleven dining choices. Worth sampling are The Centennial, a Victorian experience with white-gloved wait staff serving an extravagant six-course table d'hote menu; newly opened Flagler's Steakhouse caters to the ultimate beef lover: prime steaks, tantalizing T-bones, and colossal prime ribs,and a sumptuous buffet breakfast in the dramatic Circle Dining Room with selections from huge laden farmhouse style tables

The all-pink Boca Ration Resort & Club was created by eccentric Addison Mizner in the 1920s. Lavishly set on acres of landscaped tropical gardens, caged exotic birds, intricate mosaics and fountains, the property reflects Spanish, Moorish and Gothic influences. This family-style resort has just completed a $12-million golf, tennis and fitness complex. There are also numerous dining options offering a variety of cuisine, atmosphere and formality. Top of the Tower is an Italian venue on the 27th floor of the new high-rise offering spectacular views.

An enviable collection of museum-quality 18th- and 19th-century art and antiques sets the tone for the more formal Ritz-Carlton, on Palm Beach Island. It celebrates the good life with a wide choice of activities and amenities aimed at indulging guests. This Mediterranean-style resort serves a variety of international cuisine's. French chef Joseph Mattioli introduced an artful menu in The Restaurant; nightly entertainment is a feature of the more formal Grill, and you can take afternoon tea at The Lounge.

Golf, of course, is the main attraction of the PGA National Resort and Spa, but there is plenty of other attractions for non-golfers on this unbelievable 2,340 acre four-star, four-diamond resort. Restaurants run the gamut from casual sports bar to spa cuisine. For moderately priced Flor-Asian cuisine, sample the Crab Catcher for its medley of fish and seafood.

For something completely different, The Chesterfield Hotel is a bit of England transferred to the heart of Palm Beach. The intimate (only 53 rooms) four-star hotel is a stylish country manor house built in a registered historic landmark. Located near Palm Beach's tony Worth Avenue (the East's Rodeo Drive), the Chesterfield serves afternoon tea in its private library, and dinner in the funky Leopard Lounge, the towns hottest night spot.

Palm Beach also offers a diverse selection of independent restaurants (Amici'c a bright, airly Italian spot attracting the local and visiting players, comes to mind), along with singular attractions that might lure you away from the resorts.

The Morikami Museum is a tranquil slice of Japan. Dedicated to early Japanese settlers in Florida, it is the only museum in the country glorifying the living culture of Japan. Its 200 acres contain , manicured Japanese gardens, sparkling lakes, and ponds teeming with colorful koi and turtles. Don't miss the ceremony at the tea house, or Japanese treats at the Cornell Cafe.

To experience the flavor of Florida as it was before development, the Loxahatchee Everglades Tour is both informative and exhilarating. As your air boat glides over the "Sea of Grass," you get a sense of adventure and excitement, nosing up to blackened alligators as they bask in the midday sun and dive as you cruise by. This is an eco-tour by an enthusiastic guide who points out the unbelievably wide variety of birds and creatures who inhabit the wild.

For family entertainment and animals up close there are more options; Lion Country Safari, a large wildlife preserve, which you take in from the safety of your car,and Dreher Park Zoo which is another local treasure constantly being upgraded.

To get an idea of how the great industrial barons lived at the turn of the century, don't miss the Flagler Museum. Other museums of interest are the Norton Gallery, the Society of the Four Arts, and the South Florida Science Museum and Planetarium.