The Landwehr Report

Palm Beach, FL
April 5, 2009

THE SOPISTICATED TABLE

By Sheldon Landwehr

Whenever Palm Beach locals start talking about their fine restaurants and how much finer they are than other fine restaurants (and that's a pet subject of conversation in Palm Beach) the name of the Palm Beach Grill invariably comes up.  It's one of the stalwarts of Palm Beach and one of the most respected.   It's likewise watchful of its reputation and takes pains to see that no one including the customers does anything to tarnish it.

Palm Beach Grill is American and proud of it and the menu is studded with American dishes teased with International touches ----home smoked salmon with toasted points, grilled artichokes in house remoulade, a feast of salads, Creole BBQ shrimp with basmati rice, grilled red snapper with crispy rock shrimp and lemon butter sauce, true Dover sole, Bone-in rib eye steak sided with thick sliced tomatoes and blue cheese.

Of particular interest to devotees of shrimp cocktails would be the Palm Beach Grills version, an astonishing platter brisling with layer upon layer of supple jumbo shrimp sided with pungent cocktail sauce.  Another enchanting house special preparation is their cedar plank fresh roasted salmon tendered succulent in fragrant spices with -- I confess, the tastiest hand-cut fries ever and uniquely formed crisp coleslaw.  The signature bone-roasted aged prime rib and mashed potatoes is likewise a disappointment-proof main course.

Among the dessert choices, don't miss the voluptuous house-made hot fudge sundae, a sweet ending guaranteed to seduce your every wonton desire.

The wine list is adequate with favoritism shown to reds.  Despite packed houses, attentive service is dependable.  The only noticeable downside is the intrusive noise level making conversation a challenge.               

*** Palm Beach Grill, 340 Royal Poinciana Way, Palm Beach, Florida.  Telephone: 561-835 1077.  Dinner only, 7 nights.  Entrees $18 to $35.  Reservations mandatory.  Accepts major credit cards.

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