The Landwehr Report

Toronto, ON
August 12, 2008

LOVE AT FIRST BITE

By Sheldon Landwehr

The Chinese restaurant  Lai Toh Heen is handsomely appointed in a milimist elegant motif.  It likewise has the added advantage of space for 120 patrons appealingly divided into small rooms and a balcony.  It is one of the few Chinese restaurants that is softly lit, quiet and arranged to allow some privacy between its starched cloth covered tables.  Service at Lai Toh Heen, particularly on crowded peak evening hours is surprisingly  prompt and efficient.

Although there are unusual menu choices among its Cantonese offerings such as Peking duck which emerges at the top of its game, but it's the incredibly exquisite  dim sum creations which doesn't appear on many Toronto menus that grabbed most of our attention. You must try the sizzling hot, deep-fried delicately refined and fragantly spiced  lobster roll enhanced with fresh mango.  Other ethereal offerings include Smokey enriched  bacon wrapped giant prawn and scallop roll, steamed dumplings divinely stuffed with foie gras,  crystal shrimp dumpling, Siu-Mai brisling with pork and shrimp crowned by a scallop.  Dim Sum morsels also embrace such singular wonders as crunchy crisp Tofu Brick crammed with soft, silky-smooth crabmeat, shrimp and mushrooms, fashioned like an ice cream pop, and the best of the best sticky rice wrapped in a lotus leaf combining tasteful meats and seafood.  Finish with the sweet pastry known as custard tart which  is another standout.

Lai Toh Heen, 692 Mount Pleasant Road, Toronto, Canada.  Telephone: 416 489 8922.  Valet parking dinner only.  Lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday. Dim Sum $3 to $12; entrees $16 to $42.  Accepts reservations and major credit cards.