Sheldon Landwehr: Scoup du Jour

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The Landwehr Report

Lecanto, FL
November, 2009

FAIREST OF THEM ALL

By Sheldon Landwehr

The idea of encountering two blocks East of 491 on Highway 44 in a nondescript Southwest Florida town labeled Lecanto, a restaurant comparable to the better venues in New York, Chicago or Los Angles, is downright preposterous, unless, of course, you are aware of the fact that in Florida, as in California, the preposterous is frequently the norm.

Anyway, there is---The Rusty Duck, in Lecanto. In appearance, it is the antithesis of Florida's high-end, fancy eating places---where they are pretentious, it is plain---where they are ugly in an ostentatious way, it is ugly in a folksy way, rustically fitted with booths, chairs and tables sheathed in quaint glass protected, flowered print cloths. The free-standing facade is unattractive and generally unattended.

Owner, Louise Aneiro devotes herself to her pots, pans and zesty cooking skills, along with kibitzing the patrons (time permitting). This format has apparently worked for the last two decades. Characteristically, she maintains an out-of- the-box approach, working her 44 seat restaurant three hours daily (5 PM to 8 PM), tended by unorthodox looking servers, who nevertheless, provides deftly competent proffering.

Properties Louise Aneiro prefers lots of advance notice if she is to accommodate your request for a table. With that advance notice, expect a memorable, deluxe dinner of colossal proportions.

Louise realizes the importance of offering patrons distinguished gastronomic fare, setting forth menus containing such comestibles as prodigious portions of succulent crown rack of lamb ($24.95), tender, hefty cuts of juicy, tastefully seasoned Prime Rib ($24.95). This dish should be ordered upon making reservations, as it sells out quickly. Try the mighty rack of veal, bound to tickle aficionados of this milk-fed meat treat ($24.95), or such sparkling seafood as fragrantly aromatic, sushi-quality tuna cooked irresistibly rare and lightly dusted with intriguing herbs and spices ($14.95) or the exotically seasoned, simmering platter of plump Bombay shrimp basking in a feathery-light curry sauce ($14.95).

The food is not given away at The Rusty Duck, but the prices are definitely reasonable for the quality, especially when entrees include a radiant choice of remarkably originative steaming, thick bowls of soups the likes of seafood bisque floating shards of lobster and fish simply bursting with rich flavor. Chicken and rice soup is likewise thick, but unexpectedly over-salted. Then there are big leafy garden salad with a wide selection of dressings, and creative sides such as fluffy cheese infused Duchess potatoes, and loaves of hot bread.

Homemade desserts are available for those whose appetites know no bounds.

The Rusty Duck, 2924 Gulf to Lake Highway, Lecanto, Florida. Telephone: 352-746-6691. Open Tuesday to Saturday, 5 P to 8 P. Entrees average $12.95 to $28.95. Bring your own bottle (there may be a corkage charge). Reservations a must. Accepts Visa and Master card.

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