The Landwehr Report

Tampa, FL
April 23, 2008

Capital Grille

Tampa's Capital Grille, a commodes, contemporary, virile steak and lobster house, fitted out with comfortable seating, may be a neighbor of other dominant, high-end Tampa beef emporiums, but they could not be farther apart in every other respect. Bern's Steak House, a relic of the past, stands as a tarnished Golden Calf. Today Bern's proffers questionable quality control, a flawed kitchen and a dauntingly snobbish staff committed to irritating indifference. Another colossal disappointment is recently enlarged Ruth Cris Steak House, demonstrating the fare has drastically slipped over the years. At about $50 per portion (returning two steaks out of three), we judged them suitable eating, if one has the teeth of a Dinosaur. We wasted our money, you needn't waste yours. On the flip side, Capital Grille is forthright in its policies. It simply dishes out enormous portions of tender, well-marbled, richly flavored dry-aged sirloin or bone in sirloin, Delmonico steak, filet mignon and a massive 24 oz. Porterhouse. In addition, you have a choice of heavyweight, fresh broiled lobster sided with drawn butter for ducking. Uniquely prepared, its flesh is sweet, firm, succulent, tantalizing. Then you have such offerings as plump double-cut lamb chops, king-sized veal chop drenched in Roquefort butter (another of Capital Grille's most honored creations), and roasted chicken. Among seafood dishes there is grilled swordfish jardiniere, sesame seared tuna with gingery rice, and salmon seared under a citrus glaze (moistly delicious). And there is a steady flow of daily specials such as king-sized salmon salad primed with mixed greens coated in black sesame seeds.

A sweeping selection of starters include brisk lobster bisque augmented with sherry, pan-fried calamari topped with hot cherry peppers (enough for two), iced shellfish platter and more.

The kitchen works with amazing rapidity, a skill that reflects the daily performance of a staff that is dramatically fascinating to any observer curious about how servers bring to table with magical deftness the culinary expertise from the kitchen precisely on time and doing so with such ease.

Amidst the dessert specialties of the house are the lightest coconut cream pies steeped in coconut flavor, creamy-cheesecake densely dotted with strawberries, and for chocoholics, an espresso flavored, flowerless chocolate cake.

A wide assortment of cocktails and wine are on hand to accompany your meal.

On a day when your hunger is razor-sharp and nothing but big helpings of simple well-cooked food will do, Capital Grille is the place to go.

Capital Grille, 2223 North Westshore Blvd., Tampa, Florida (plus many more locations in the USA). Phone: 813-830-9433. Lunch and dinner daily. Dinner entrees $23 to $45. Valet parking. Accepts reservations and major credit cards.