Weekly Column

October 17, 2003

SOMETHING DIFFERENT

Counter is one of the most unusual and interesting restaurants in Manhattan. The food, by Chef Eric Hunter, previously of Bouley, is hip organic vegetarian, soundly seasoned and a welcome change from mundane vegetarian venues. There is an attractive contemporary dining room, and prompt efficient service.

The menu offers vegetarian tapis, salads, burgers, and stellar entrees, the best of which must be the exquisite herb wild rice cake composed of haricots, mushroom Ragu and truffle cannelloni beans. Another smash is curried chickpea stew full of crunchy Chinese long beans, clove scented jasmine rice, lemongrass and parsnips. Meatloaf aficionados go for the Blue Plate Special created with lentils and wild rice. Smoked oyster mushrooms on corn cakes garnered a split decision.Garlic soup gets thumbs up, too sweet butternut squash soup rates a thumbs down. Desserts surprise and delight.

Counter, 105 1st Av., NY. (212)982-5870.D-dly Ent.$10.95
-$16.25.Sat.,Sun. br. Organic wine & beer. . Acc. maj. cc.