Weekly Column

August 8, 2003

FUNKY GAMBIT

Paprika, a funky, inexpensive, East Village eatery, incorporates such bad features as loud piped-in jazz music, paper napkins, and a moniker having nothing to do with its Italian kitchen. But the fare is good, and the place is much liked.

Warm octopus and potato salad is singular and distinguished, grilled polenta coated with cheese sauce is excellent, and so is mozzarella and tomatoes. Pasta, albeit slightly salty, is nevertheless, admirable. Most dexterous and reasonably-priced entree ($11), plump, juicy, boneless chicken Milanese, fried to golden goodness, is pure Italian. Potato crusted filet of sea bass turns out extremely moist, flaky and flavorsome.
There’s little wrong with Paprika. In fact, meals and prices are frighteningly addictive.
Cucina Italiana Paprika, 110 St. Mark’s Pl.. NY. (212)677-6563. L-D, weekend brunch. D-ent. $11-16.50. Cash only. .